Paris Women's Fashion Week kicks off amid economic gloom

Paris Women's Fashion Week opens Monday with a debut show from South African brand MaXhosa Africa and a fresh collection from new-ish Canadian trendsetters Matieres Fecales, look to lift the gloom surrounding the sector. A total of 67 catwalk shows for 2027 Spring-Summer have been planned for this Fashion Week, with dozens of other brands set to show their designs in private viewings and events around the French capital. Industry big beasts Christian Dior and Saint Laurent will send their models out on Tuesday. It could be a last show for Saint Laurent's Belgian designer Anthony Vaccarello, who has been the driving force behind the brand's success for the past decade but is reportedly heading for the exit. If his departure is confirmed, he is unlikely to be the only creative director heading for the chop as label owners and chief executives look to revive their fortunes in a tough commercial environment for luxury brands. At Balenciaga, Italian designer Pierpaolo Piccioli is reportedly in the sights of parent company Kering, having failed in the difficult task of maintaining sales levels achieved by his predecessor Demna, according to specialist blog Miss Tweed. At Chloe, artistic director Chemena Kamali, in the job since 2023, is also being pushed towards the door over a lack of profitability, according to investigative outlet Glitz. "There were the 'golden years' (for the sector) after Covid, a peak in 2023 and then a luxury market that stabilised," Pascal Morand, executive president of the French Haute Couture and Fashion Federation, told AFP. "The major groups, mid-sized brands and young designers are not affected in the same way. Markets, outlets and business models are evolving," he said. Bright spots Although sales are falling for many brands, there are bright spots. Since his arrival a year ago at the helm of Chanel, Matthieu Blazy has created a buzz and sales frenzy at the classic French label, with customers queueing outside some boutiques for his latest collections. His Spring-Summer show takes place next Monday. Another brand with reason for cheer is MaXhosa Africa, a luxury knitwear group founded in 2010 by textile designer Laduma Ngxokolo, who has already shown collections privately in Paris but has now been invited to join the official programme. On a mission to promote South African culture and the traditions of the Xhosa people, Ngxokolo counts Michelle Obama and Beyonce as fans. With his first show on Monday, he will be hoping to emulate the success of Matieres Fecales, the Canadian brand which first appeared in March last year but has gone on to dress a host of celebrities and A-listers. Its unusual name -- which means faecal matter in French -- was chosen to ensure that people who bought the brand's clothing only wanted it for the design, rather than the name on the label. After more than seven weeks—fashion "month" technically began at Pitti Uomo on January 13—the fall 2026 season has finally washed up in Paris. Which, to the die-hards, is the only fashion week that really counts. Not only because it plays host to the world's most powerful brands—Chanel, McQueen, Miu Miu, Saint Laurent, Louis Vuitton, Balenciaga, Alaïa, Tom Ford, Christian Dior, Balmain—but because it attracts the world's most famous people, too. Last season alone, Margot Robbie, Nicole Kidman, both Jenners, Kim Kardashian, three-quarters of the Beckham siblings, Jennifer Lawrence, Rosalía, Zendaya, Anne Hathaway, Emma Stone, Emma Watson, and even Meghan Markle took their seats on the front row. After events by Julie Kegels, Weinsanto, and Hodakova, the Matieres Fecales show at 7:00pm (1700 GMT) will bring the first day of Paris Fashion Week to a close.